We’ve all been there. As a newbie surfer, stoked to hit the surf, we go running full pelt for the brine only to have all our hopes and dreams dashed before we’ve even caught a wave. While we doff our caps to new recruits and salute those who hear the call there a few common pitfalls you should be aware of if joining the ranks of surferville. Here NCW takes a tongue in cheek look some of the obvious ones.
Not going it alone
Surfing’s a hard sport, whichever way you look at it. The physical demands alone make it so. But there’s so much more to it than just paddling out. Knowing where to go, how to get into position, possessing the skills to actually catch a wave (paddling and popping up) and doing so safely are fundamentals that you’ll only nail down over time. Having an experienced coach help show you the ropes is therefore a more efficient way of learning how to surf. There are plenty of surf schools around. It’s therefore wise to get indoctrinated into surfing with qualified professional guidance rather than spending months getting rolled in the foam.
Not having the wrong board
So you’ve had a few lessons and have now purchased your perceived magic stick. Unfortunately what you’ve failed to identify is the Kelly Slater pro model under your arm – all gleaming and white – is the perfect sled for macking Tahitian reef passes but will serve you no benefits during early surfing career sojourns to the coast. A far better course of action is to seek out sound advice and part readies for a sled more in tune with your current skill level and aspirations. Leave the toothpick for another time.
Not putting your leash on wrong ankle
There’s nothing that screams ‘kook’ louder than having your leash on the wrong ankle. OK, you may be grinning from ear to ear as you successfully pop and ride the white water shoreward. But do yourself a favour and at least know which ankle your leash should be on! Then address the fact you’re standing on the nose facing backwards (a great freestyle move we hasten to add – if only you knew it).
Not looking at the forecast
‘To the beach!’ you cry as your trusty ‘Dub camper screeches off the driveway. Frothing with excitement you rock up at your chosen spot only to find a howling onshore gale ripping 12ft of thumping evilness apart. That 2ft groomed offshore perfect corduroy you had in mind is now a broken dream as you blub into your mocha choca artisan latte (well, that’s what we surfers drink isn’t it?). A wiser move would’ve been to check the forecast before forking out £300 on fuel!
Not enough neoprene/too much rubber
Paddling out during the hottest day of the year in a 5mm wetty really isn’t a wise choice – unless you fancy getting heat stroke or losing five stone. Likewise a shorty in Feb is also going to do you no favours – hypothermia sets in quicker than you’d imagine. Don’t scrimp on protection – a high quality wetsuit (such as the type you’ll find in NCW’s shop), suitable for the conditions and time of year – is much better for your surfing enjoyment.
Not needing all the gear
At the start of your surfing journey it’s very tempting to pile into your local surf store and part cash for all manner of paraphernalia. You can see the shop owner positively salivating at the thought of making a score from your over keen beanness. The fact is, you only need some good rubber, a surfboard, leash, traction and you’re good to go. That latest digital wax applicator can wait for another time.
Not needing to be rescued
Surfers – especially newbs – getting into to difficulties out at sea is all too common a problem. Lack of understanding about things like rips can lead to Mr Beach lifeguard heading in your direction to yank you shoreward. Pay attention to warnings in summer, learn about your surfing environment and don’t bite off more than you can chew – especially in winter.
Not trying to use surf speak
Have you ever stood next to someone trying to use all the lingo when it blatantly doesn’t fit? There’s nothing more cringe worthy than a London banker getting all pseudo Aussie and throwing shakas left right and centre. Leave this kind of thing to those who it comes naturally to. You don’t need to act cool, bru.
Not overdoing it in the pub post-session
So you’ve scored a banging surf session and feel the need to celebrate – rightly so! But consider the following day is going to be even better (and it’s only the start of your weekend). Laid up in your pit, feeling rough as a badger the following morning is the easiest way to ruin a surf trip. Those Jagerbombs may have seemed a good idea at 2am but the fallout can be devastating.
Not getting in the way
The cardinal rule when the surf’s pumping is not dropping in or ruining another rider’s wave. Learning, understand and adhering to surfing etiquette is paramount. Simply put: don’t get in the way of other surfers. The wrath of an angry wave warrior isn’t worth the hassle.
We’ve all had some of the above happen at points – maybe more often than not. Learn from your mistakes, try and be sensible with your surfing decisions and you’ll be poised for a ripe wave riding life. At the very least you’ll have some entertaining stories to tell the kids!