The past few weeks have seen the reemergence of swell after a summer of slumber. And with this reappearing of ridable waves the breaks and lineups around the UK have been a hive of activity once again. And it’s great to see so much enthusiasm for surfing. But there’s a slight fly in the ointment when it comes to surfing safety.
Some days getting out back is a chore. There may be relentless walls of white water and plowing through might be hard work. Seasoned surfers will have (or should have) duck diving on lock. This foundational skill is the only efficient way of arriving at the peak. And even more so when waves of consequence pulse in.
With surfing being so popular it’s understandable some skills haven’t been acquired. Duck diving takes practise. Yet in all circumstances, one thing should be remembered: DON’T DITCH YOUR BOARD.
Surfboard leashes are relied upon too heavily these days. Chucking your board behind you and relying on the tether to keep your sled close is all well and good. But having your board wafting behind in the white water is really bad for the health and well being of other surfers following your path, In fact, some call this the kill zone as there’s a real risk of your surfboard belting another rider in the head as you paddle happily on through the flotsam.
Best advice therefore is HOLD ONTO YOUR BOARD. Don’t ditch it at the first signs of white water. And don’t kick your surfboard towards the beach after you finish your ride. If you wipe out, which we all do, that’s fine. Accidents do happen. Retrieve your board as quickly as possible and get on with your sesh.
For more surf etiquette knowledge head here.