Beep, beep, beep goes the alarm, rousing you from a light sleep. It may be early but you’ve only been dozing – the warm rays of sun streaming in through slightly ajar curtains, bathing your face in its glow. Springing out of bed a luke warm shower to remove the sticky night’s grime is calling. Having dried off it’s then downstairs for some cold orange juice from the fridge. Taking a gulp thermometer readings are already rising – it’s going to be another hot one for sure! Pulling on a tee and boardies you fumble for your sunnies in the hallway drawer. Having located them a shout goodbye to your other half before stepping out into the bright warmth of a new summer’s day.
Jumping in your van windows are wound down and you opt for a bit of Jack Johnson tuneage – cheesy and cliché but very apt for your buoyant mood and weather. A quick check over your shoulder reveals neoprene is still in a pile towards the rear. It hardly matters though as temperatures are sultry and rubber might not even be needed. Zooming to the beach you spot a few other wave sliders heading in the same direction – one of which, the old hippy longboarder from the next street, is cycling with board under his arm. You grin and stick your thumb up as he nods in your direction. Anticipation levels are super high as you roll faster than necessary along the dry but potholed beach access road. There’s barely a breath of wind and if the forecast is right there could be some sweet swell lines greeting you. Summer, while great and all, isn’t the most consistent period for surf. After a few days of drought the thought of some liquid walls is a relishing prospect. Hopping out of your van you can see offshore winds grooming perfectly formed waves – the whole vista is very Californian. It’s not the biggest swell but it doesn’t matter. Grabbing your trusty nose rider a thermal rash vest is all that’s needed and off you bound towards the ocean – grinning like a Cheshire cat.
There’re a handful of riders already in but the vibe’s mellow – after all, it isn’t even 7am! A few quick pleasantries are exchanged as a set rears up outback. Stroking hard you feel the wave lift you up and propel you forwards. Three few extra strokes to be sure, a subtle pop up and you’re gliding along a watery gem, sunlight glittering and dancing off the spray as you weave and carve up and down the face. It sure feels good to be alive on morning’s like this and the day has only just begun…