It’s one thing scratching round when waves are small – trying to max out what dribbles are on offer –but it’s another story when Mother Nature delivers XXL conditions. At this point most will (still) debate where’s best to head, but for entirely different reasons. Usually shelter will be needed, if not to duck out of accompanying gales (a trait of storm conditions in the UK), then to find a spot where the surf is more manageable – dare we say smaller. At the very least cleaner.
As the UK braces itself for imminent low pressure activity (it’s been a while), with predicted storm surge of significance, choosing your put in, for anyone planning on tackling Doris’s wrath, will be as much about staying safe among the carnage as it will enjoying a fulfilling sesh.
One of the benefits of the UK’s coastline is it being a higgledy piggledy mash up of sheltered coves, inlets, harbours, exposed bays and launch locations from every different compass direction. With small surf exposed beaches will pick up the biggest conditions but when large lumps swing in those usually dormant spots spring to life. The trick is knowing where they are and, more importantly, how to access them.
Trekking across boggy fields, scrambling down precarious goat tracks or heading along single lane roads – barely wide enough for Farmer Giles and his flock – is common practice for accessing some of these locations. The term secret spot is often used and on pain of death will be utterances of where they are. Guarded ferociously you’ll need to be in the ‘club’ to get a look in. Usually reserved for locals only, or honorary members of said surf crew, if you should stumble across one of these hallowed bolt holes then approach with caution and respect. Localism, while not pretty (we certainly don’t condone it), is still rife. As a UK based wetsuit brand we’ve seen much of teh aforementioned in our time. That said the UK’s surf scene is a much mellower affair than a few years back so as long as you’re not rent-a-crowd or pap happy with the camera you may just snag a few bombs and live to tell the tale.
With many secret locations you’ll find a hardy pack frothing and on it when conditions turn on, certainly in the prime surfing real estate of Cornwall, Devon and Wales. There are, however, a bunch of other spots where you can bag a solo session – especially along not so frequented stretches of coast. Searching when waves are small is a good exercise, each launch point stored to memory until the next pumping swell arrives. Then it’s Def Con 1.
For now, if you’re planning on tackling Storm Doris, or any of her follow on siblings, we wish you well, salute your work and look forward to hearing hushed tales of epic charging later down the line. Just don’t mention any names and make sure you’re wearing the right gear from your favourite UK wetsuit company (we had to get that one in!).